MT HALLA (1950 MASL)

Perhaps climbing to another country is a great and once in a lifetime adventure that every climbers and adventurers dreamed off, Every country has its culture and when one is immersed he or she can fully experience its unique distinctiveness.

Jan 3 2019 (HOTEL GAON J)
23, Seomunro- 41beon gil, Seogwipo City Jejudo South korea

  
Jeju City- We were very excited to climb, since this is my first winter outside the Philippines, and it was my first time climbing a mountain in the winter season. We were very jet lagged after only 3 hours of flight from Hong kong, we haven't gotten enough sleep yesterday after Our team composed of 4 Pinoy climbers climbed Mt TAI MO  (the highest mountain in HK) which I also supposed to do but I was late in the flight schedule, we only had 23 hours before our next connecting flight to Jeju and almost half of our time was spent traveling, hiking and exploring downtown, furthermore we had a bad experience on our booking stay in HK that night.

The weather fellt like Pulag summit)

This climb was organized by my professional climber and friend Dr Ericson Ranchez, with me, Emmanuel, Teresa and Rose. We arrived in Jeju International Airport on the morning of Jan 3 2019, It was cold at 0°C since it was the middle of winter. We took the bus route #600.  from the airport to the southern port city of Seogwipo which cost W 5,500 won or P 240.

The whole travel time took us 2 hours passing through 10 bus stations,connecting two major cities, Jeju in the northern part of the island and Seogwipo in the southern part., we were set to climb the highest mountain of South Korea which was Mt Halla or hallasan towering at 1950 meters located in the heart of Jeju Island the summer capital of Korea.

Jeju City

Highway 1135

Downtown Seogwipo City

Although Hallasan is only the 2nd highest Mountain in the korean Peninsula after Mt Paektu in North Korea which I also plan to climb someday.



BACK GROUND




Hallasan is a Shield Volcano which form the bulk of jeju Island towering at 1950 Meters it 
has been designated Korea's National Monument # 182. its summit has a crater which locals called Baengnokdam and was last erupted 1000 years ago. 

The Mountain is home to Gwaneumsa the oldest Buddhist temple on the Island dating back  1000 years ago The temple was originally built during the Goryeo Dynasty (1046-1083) during King Munjong reign.

There are 5 hiking trails to summit 

Gwaneumsa Trail- 8.7 km
Eorimok Trail - 4.7 km
Seongpanak Trail  - 9.6 km
Yeongsil Trail - 3.7 km
Donnaeko Trail  - 9.1 km

legend says that jeju Island was built by the spirit of Mt Halla created three (3) demi-gods such as Go, Yang and Bu in Moheung (name of place) 4,300 years ago. they believe that these Demi gods were protecting the island .

Jan 4 2019 

San 137-24, Gyorae-ri, Jocheon-eup, Jeju, Jeju Island 695-811, South Korea

4.00 am, It was a freezing morning at 2°C we woke up at 3.30 am on our hotel and had only 30 minutes to prepare, we ate our breakfast on GS25 (Korean convenient store) near the northern bus stop and took the bus # 182 from which cost us  W 3,000 won and 30mins of travel. 

freezing winter morning

weather forcast on a bus stop

we then bought our pack lunch (Bento meal and korean onigiri kimbap) and some trail food in Seogwipo before heading to the jump off. 

We planned to traverse Hallasan via Seongpanak- Yongsil tail but since Yongsil was closed because it was winter and snow is too heavy we decided to back trail Seonpanak which is a 19.2 KM long day hike. 

5.30 am, We arrived in seongpanak mountain head in jeocheon-eup the eastern part of the island, temperature started to drop at - 5°C since we gained altitude.. It had a mini mountain shelter covered with snow, we saw many cars parked and there were many Korean climbers alongside with us.

First snow

 It was the first time that I saw snow piling up on the streets. Intimidated, we immediately bought crampons for (W 10,000 won) it is a gear for ice traction on the mountain hut store beside the jump off. 

We commenced our trek at 6.15 am it was below freezing point estimated at -5°C the total trek distance is 9.6kms to the summit, the trail was established passing through a unique fauna surrounding Hallasan.

The snow was gradually challenging since it was our first time trekking up on a snowy mountain. It was may 3rd International mountain but my first in the Alpine region. 

We have many Korean companions alongside, some Asian nationalities, some were Japanese, we were the only Filipino climbers to scale Hallasan that day.

heavy snow

Short steep ascents welcomed us until the Seogbat Shelter I could say Korean mountains unlike the Philippines had develop established hiking trails. 

Trail was established but was covered with heavy snow

Since the Korean Government agencies were very strict protecting its natural resources but unlike Korean mountains, Philippine mountains is far more challenging and have more sense of wilderness alongside.

Seong Bat Shelter

I met a korean climber based from Jeonju city who was also climbing hallasan that day, he is a volunteer and a member of lions club and actively supporting charitable institutions in the Philippines, I talked to him in korean since Im practicing my Hangul fluently.

Cedar Pine Forest

We reached the pine cedar forested area around 9.15 am passing through the 1st water source which was frozen and covered with heavy snow. We reached the diversion road to "Saraoreum lake" a frozen lake in the middle of mt halla after few sets of steep assaults.

It was around altitude 1000 MASL  you could also see the summit of Hallasan from the creater which locals call "Baengnokdam" .

Jindalreabat Shelter 2.3KMS to summit

We spent another hour before reaching  "Jindalraebat Shelter" the second shelter before we could reach the summit. From jindalraebat, you could almost see the summit. Jindalraebat is the 2nd shelter which has more established comfort room facilities and had a helipad beside it for emergency cases. 

Fighting!

We rested for a bit and recommenced the remaining segment to
"Baekrodam" or the summit of hallasan  it was 2.3kms from jindalreabat Shelter, from Jindalreabat there were wooden stairs going up that resembled the trail assaulting the summit of Mt Kinabalu in Malaysia which I climb 2 years ago. 

Explicit view of baengnokdam

11.30am, Finally we reached Baekrodam or the summit of Mt Halla. It was extremely freezing cold, the wind pounded us at 80kph. The snow fell down heavy as the temperature deepened on our way to the top. From my altimeter, I saw the temperature on top of the summit at -11°C,  with altitude 1949 MASL. The wind chill was -15°C, I could harldy see the top and I was wearing 5 layers of wool, fleece, thermals and a wind breaker.

We had our lunch which was frozen inside my backpack, my Gatorade bottle was freezing like, it was like just came out from the freezer!

107th Summit

The summit had a rock marking in Hanja of "hallasan"   it was common among Korean mountains. From the summit I could see the city of Seogwipo, and Aewol Eup, on the northwest, I also saw Jeju City which had a relative distance since we were on the east side.

We had short photo ops alongside with Korean climbers, We met new Korean friends and introduced our selves as Filipino climbers climbing the highest of the Asian peaks, they were very warm and welcoming. Some Korean climbers took a photo of us holding the Philippine Flag saying job well done, Daebak!  or amazing in korean. 

We ate our pack frozen lunch and envied some Koreans who had a hot ramen noodles for lunch since it was below freezing. They store there hot water on a special thermos gear.

We only spent 45 mins on the summit since we need to get down after lunch. Any climber who would not make it on the summit until noon will be automaticaly instructed to abandon the summit climb, since weather on the summit could be treacherous. Thin frozen wind struck us from different directions as we got down. We were shivering in cold, It was far the coldest mountain I climbed the wind chill felt like -20°C 

How cold it was

We reached Jindalreabat Shelter at exactly 01:13 pm, We had a short 20 minutes break before recommencing our trek down to the diversion trail which was the only way up to Saraoreum lake, And then heavy snow started to downfall again. We decided to visit Saraoreum lake that took us an hour to get back to the diversion road.

We heard the chirping sound of crows staring at us as we climbed up Saraoreum lake.

Saraoereum lake was a location of some korean Dramas

03:10pm,  We reached saraoreum lake and it was frozen, it was often called "Lake of the Heaven" owing to the mystical fog that can be seen occasionally crossing the peak. but since it was winter it was covered in all white.

Sprint trekking skills

We went down immediately on Saraoreum lake to the 1st shelter since the snow fall did not stop. The trail we climbed earlier that morning was covered with 10 millimeter snow, we had to passed through the pine forest quickly which was also covered with heavy snow since we don't want to get lost on that forest and it was already 3.30 pm.

Take 5

From the 1st shelter Songbat, we sprint down relentlessly passing through some thick snow 'that almost covered my trekking boots. We were so fast that I didn't notice my bonnet was already gone which I bought in Baguio 3 years ago. My ears was exposed to some extreme temperature so I had to hurry down. I was the lead pack of the group.

It was already dark

05:15 pm we reached the trail head office it was already dark since it was winter. there were few Korean climbers behind us but I could say we were the last team to arrive since the parking area filled with cars earlier was already an open space.

 Lol

We met the park officials and they congratulated us since we were the last team, I talked to them in Korean we told them that we were from the PH. We printed our climb certs for W 1000 won or $1 in exchange that we have to let them see our summit photos.

I recharged my phone on the locker area and got a chance to talk to a cute Korean lady climber, she said there were still few Korean climbers behind us as we thought we were the last team to arrive she was waiting for her friend.

I congratulated her for reaching the summit as well, we left the trail head office at around 5.30 pm after changing our inner layering clothes. It was dark, the ground was slippery with ice sheets covering the asphalt road, we walked 5 minutes until we reached the bus stop going back to Seogwipo City.

06.30pm. We went back on our hotel in Seogwipo We celebrated by eating ramen noodles, jajangmyun and kimbop. We recalled our experience climbing Mt halla that day it was fun, tiring, and a whole lot new experience for us, we thought we couldn't stand the freezing weather but thanks to my climbing buddies we were all safe.

We bought a case of Soju and Cass beer to keep us warm and relax after a long arduous trek that almost consumed our whole day. its like a Korean Vodka!

Cheers!

I was so drunk and exhausted that night that I forgot to change my trekking clothes I fell asleep on my room with my trekking attire. I woke up the next morning and had a HOT SHOWER eventually we continued our Jeju adventure visiting some best spots and sacred waterfalls, eating and drinking authentic local food for the next 2 days.

Overall, The experience was all new to me, back in my hometown I always climb hot tropical rain forest mountain, but the experience and everything was different, immersing with local Koreans in Seogwipo was not new to me since I have many korean friends in the Philippines, I could say that there intense passion for climbing was not different from us ad our local climbing community back in PH

I just hope that many pinoy climbers keep pursuing farther horizons and climbing higher altitudes.

TOTAL EXPENSE 4Days 3 Nights excluding Airfare

Transportation: W 24,000
Accomodation  W 50,000 4Days 3Nights
Food                   W 70,000
Others                W 38,000
________________________
TOTAL               W 184,000 =  7,940 Pesos



Note:

• When hiking in the winter, bring enough trekking gears because it can be very extremely cold especially on Mt Halla Summit. Crampons, Thermal jackets, fleece, durable hiking Boots, thermal Gloves and socks.

• There is a ferry from Jeju Island going to Busan South Korea which is a 4 hours travel
• Bring Extra Cash and Credit Cards, There are no open Banks and money changer on the Weekends
• You can rent a car across the Island
• Korean mountains are open trails and usually FREE of entrance, No guides available, emergency contact numbers can be seen along the trails.
• You must be prepared! depending on the season, the winter is far more challenging than the rest of the four seasons